Illinois Road Rage

As we head south on I-355 toward the suburbs of Chicago the scenery becomes more desolate compared to the sky scrappers that pierce the skyline of downtown Chicago where we had just come from. The distinct aroma of city life filled the empty space within the car; pollution from thousands of cars that clog the city streets with slight catches of delicious smells of food most likely from a Polish bakery, Chicago pizza joint or a variety of other ethnic cuisines. Cicero, Harlem, La grange; further south as we drive to a distant rural town where a small Polish restaurant better known as Warsaw Inn resides.

Slight traffic still filled the interstate and attempting to stay at a constant speed required Tiberiu to switch lanes; waiting for cars in the fast lane to pass was an act of kindness until the moment when he began to merge a young guy proceeded to cut into the lane.  Weaving in and out of traffic, he cut us off and then began to tailgate the lady in front of him to top it off.  Not stopping there he continued to do this to a number of others in the stretch of cars and trucks up ahead.

We eventually caught up with him and cut him off as retaliation.  Hitting the brakes multiple times while in front of him, he continued to ride close behind. When given the opportunity he pulled up beside us, rolled down his window and began to say a few words.  But as he got close to our car Tibi collected a large amount of spit from deep in the back of his throat, turned and then spit straight into his window…actually hitting him inside his car!

Ha ha ha…gotcha!

What is the chances of that!?!

What a sight to see!  As he wiped the spit off his face you could tell he became even more enraged as he threw something out of his window and succeeded in hitting the side of our car. Worth it though to see him get spit on at 80mph driving down the interstate.  But in return I proceeded to throw a bottle of water at his silver Chevy cavalier and Tibi again spit in his general direction. Good thing he exited soon after or else things could have gotten a little more heated!

Bruxelles, Belgium

Friday: 22 May 2009

I arrived in Charleroi at about 23.00pm and took a bus to Bruxelles Zuid. On the ride there I ended up meeting two people; a Finnish guy about my age and a girl living in Bruxelles who is originally from Chicago. His name is Jan and hers is Jane; the J is pronounced as a Y in their respective languages. Jane’s family moved to Chicago from Lithuania and she attended school there in Vilnius but moved to Bruxelles to work for the European Commission. She was kind enough to help me navigate the metro and helped me get to the stop just north of central where I can easily walk to my destination.

As I made my way in the direction that the hostel was located on the map in my travel book I noticed everyone was out and having a good time on this Friday night. I met a couple people from Iowa who attempted to help me locate the exact point where the hostel was positioned on the map but for some reason there was no hostel in sight. So I decided to walk in a local pub and ask if they were aware of where I could find the hostel that was in my travel book; a girl that was sitting at the bar was unaware of the hostel I was in search of but happened to work at another hostel. Damn Lonely Planet…this is the first time you have failed me! I guess it was bound to happen at some point in time but why now when I have a 20 kg ruck-pack on my back and my feet are killing me? She called up to the hostel to make sure there was a bed available for me and gave me basic directions to where I was going. I was doing just fine until I got about two blocks and then was lost again…I guess I should say just unsure in the direction I was heading.

So I was fortunate to meet two guys from South Africa who asked if I needed help locating where I was going and we continued to chat as we walked along until we went our separate ways. I told then a little about my travels and they explained to me how they were in Bruxelles for work. Michael is working out of Bratislava, Slovakia and told him how I was fortunate enough to visit this Eastern European city. They were amazingly nice and I thanked them as we went our separate ways.

I then continued up the hill where an older man stopped next to me in his car and asked if I wanted to go get a drink; why I would be interested to get in a car with some stranger who is older then my parents and have a drink with them is beyond me. I am obviously trying to get somewhere and it is not going to be with you!!!

Further on past the botanical gardens, down a small road where I unfortunately pasted it up the first time around. When I finally reached the Vincent Van Gogh Youth Hostel ( http://www.chab.be/IndexUK.html ) I waited about 45 minutes until someone came and opened the door. Finally, it is 1.30am and I have a place to sleep. I checked in, got ready for bed, drank a cold Coca Cola and passed out. Not the usually Friday night drink of choice but after such a long day and walking for the past two hours around Bruxelles I was ready to call it a night.

Saturday: 23 May 2009

The next morning I woke at 8.45am to make it for the complimentary breakfast of cereal and old bread…but I would have to say the hot chocolate was magnificent. This is when I met Maria from Philadelphia who is also traveling solo through Bruxelles and will be traveling for the next three months around Europe. I was planning on just passing through and heading to Da Haag before my arrival to Amsterdam but after Maria twisted my arm a little I decided to stay and explore Bruxelles with her. We first walked down to central station to drop off my bag so I would not have to worry about getting it later. Then we continued down through the park to the Royal Palace, down to the Palais de Justice and into a marvelous church. The Royal Palais was grand and beautiful; right in front of the main gate to the beautiful Parc de Bruxelles. But what I would have to say was one of the most stunning structures I have laid eyes on would have to be the Palais de Justice. Despite the scaffolding that outlines the outer walls of this architectural masterpiece I can only imagine laying eyes upon this structure when it was first erected. King Leopold II was an ambitious man and desired to turn his capital city into the most impressive in the world by instructing Joseph Poelaert to build the Palais of Justice on Galgenveld. Galgenveld being the Gallows Field where criminals used to be hung after found guilty of various crimes. This Neo-gothic building was constructed from 1866 to 1883 and for the longest time it was the world’s largest building. The location of this structure places this building above the rest of the city and centrally located with spectacular views that should not be missed by anyone visiting this Belgian city. We walked down numerous narrow streets lined with petite cafés, chocolatiers and Tin Tin murals along building walls. We made our way to one of Bruxelles main attractions the Manneken Pis which is the statue of the boy peeing into a fountain. Each day a man comes and dresses this statue in various different outfits. The first time we saw him he was dressed in red leg warmers, armor across his crest armed with a cross bow and sword. But later on that evening when be passed him again his costume was removed and his true appearance revealed; surrounded by tourists from all over the world in hopes to capture a picture with this image of Bruxelles.

We then tasted a few samples of Belgian chocolates which were more amazing than any chocolate I had ever experienced and I found myself lingering around to snag a few more samples and take in the incredible aroma of this chocolate shop. Stopping at convenient store to buy a couple Belgian beers after we discovered it was permitted to walk around with open containers was nothing shy from the unexpected. I got my favorite Framboise Lambic and a Kriek as well to try for the first time. We opened one up and enjoyed as we walked along the old Belgian bricks that make up the old town streets. We sat in the Market Square to take in all the sights, watch tourists and determine our next move. Art on canvases, fresh flowers for sale, cafés with outside tables and a beautiful bride smiling as she walks out of the marvelous church in this spectacular square. As we sat on the curve outside a busy café talk of previous travels, our love life and life experiences were exchanged as if we were long lost friends catching up after years apart.

The map and guide of the city that we followed suggested Mr. Falafel as a reasonably priced and delicious choice for lunch; for 3.50 euro we loaded our pita with cucumbers, onions, tomatoes with feta cheese, baba ghanoush and kalamata olives; peppers, tahini, potato salad topped with a delightful hot sauce and of course those amazing chick pea cakes. It was perfect and I did not want it to end; Wow…I would have to say that was the best falafel I had ever had. We then continued on to another café where we indulged in coffee and Belgian hot chocolate with a small chocolate cinnamon piece on the side. It was so nice to relax and enjoy the day with company such as Maria. She was an amazing person to explore the city with and chat about random things. We then moved on and passed a pub with Holland fanatics cheering their team on as they drank beer and numerous cops stood guard around the sports bar to ensure no hostility would occur or just in case things took a turn for the worst. A few guys approached us telling me how beautiful I was and if they could buy me a drink; I found it quit flattering and was baffled at how intoxicated they were so early in the day. The Belgian police force was ready for action and the boys antagonized them with chants of pride for their futbol team. We continued on stopping on the stairs overlooking a church and small park to chat and drink our second beer for the day. Two young men playing music on the corner and various people walk the streets, church bells ring on the hour and locals walk their dogs as the weather is so delightful. A blue smurf walked by and we could not help but stop him and ask why the interesting costume as well as take a picture with him. Of course it was the work of a British stag party and we asked more questions about this cultural tradition, their travels and life in the UK. One guy actually gave me his Stella ping pong paddles that each of them received after touring the brewery…awesome!

We saw galleries, small alley ways with restaurants serving three course meals, bars and tourist shops, comics painted on walls and many internationals from numerous different countries; not unexpected since Bruxelles is the capital of the European Union. As the sun began to set we found a popular destination to view the city from the rooftop of a parking garage that displayed stunning panoramic views of the city. Enjoying yet another Belgian beer, I sat back and took the pressure off my feet that have endured thousands of steps across Europe this past month. We are now taking off to find the bar that holds the record for the most number of beers on tap in Guinness book of world records; at 2,004 different varieties of beer. Delirium Tremens here we come!

Lost and finishing our beers on the steps of a closed store we had a drunken American boy with an Irish accent who claimed to be once part of the German Army stop to sing, chat and start on a quest to find this famous bar for us. We followed as he asked random people if they knew where the bar was including two guys sitting in a hotel lobby. They ended up being the same two South African guys that I met the night before. What is the chance of running into the same guys two nights in a row in such a big city? We ended up sitting and chatting with them for a while in the lobby of this nice hotel. Michael is the CEO of a pharmaceutical company that works to get medicine to remote areas of Africa which based on our conversation I learned about difficulties in the distribution of these items before they expire and insuring that these supplies reach those who need it in a timely manner. I told him about my studies and he asked me to contact him when I got back to the states. After a good long chat we said our good byes and set off again for the bar; we met three guys who are originally from Morocco, Algeria and Italy at the bar. Maria had been acquainted with then previously when she first arrived in Bruxelles. I began to get really tired and we headed back to the hostel where I snuck into Maria’s room and luckily enough there was a spare bed that was unoccupied. Free board…Yes! What a break, especially with my budget decreasing ever so fast.

The next morning we walked down to the train station together and headed our separate ways; me to Amsterdam and Maria to Bruges.

Rīga, Latvia: Beauty in the Baltic

Thursday: 21 May 2009

I then met a couple guys heading to Riga who were actually taking the same flight from Riga to Charleroi. We walked together from the bus station toward the old town and I got a room in the first hostel I saw. Good vibes, pleasant atmosphere with a bar in the lobby. I then said goodnight to the two Belgian guys as they set off for something a little more secluded. Unisex quarters, numerous bunk beds in each room and a single bathroom would be great for just the night. I paid 7 Lats = $14 and got changed, freshened up and headed downstairs to have a drink but not before walking down to the water. Making my way to see the bridges all lit up at night was first on my agenda; probably not the best choice given the area I was in but had to get a few shots of this electric blue outlined architecture that stretches from one side of river to the other. Walking along the river Daugava which drains into the Gulf of Riga was dark, lonely and mystical all in the same instance. As I made my way back to the hostel I passed men in taxis waiting for their next customer, empty city streets and a dark bus station where a few people wait for their next destination. Through a walking tunnel that passes under the city streets I walked solo as a single guitarist sits playing his song with beautiful lyrics and amazing acoustics that capture my senses. He sings in English; possibly a young man traveling around Europe and earning his way by performing his music on the streets of various cities. I am sure his story is something spectacular and his strength to just go and explore and do what he loves is something to be envious of.

As I sat and ordered a drink in the bar beneath my hostel I met this guy named Andy from Los Angeles who was passing through Riga after some work in Rome. He was very interesting; we chilled out, chatted and had a few drinks. We also met two other guys from Sweden who were drunk, slightly strange and slightly annoying. I had three Vodka pineapples and then headed off to sleep around 3am to make sure I was up and ready for the next morning. After saying goodnight I crawled into my bunk hoping not to wake those around me. As the hours passed I could hear random people stumble in; giggles, whispers and the sounds of those ending a good night out on the town as they crawl into bed at all hours of the night.

Friday: 22 May 2009

As I awoke from a good nights sleep, I felt well rested and ready to go out and do some exploring despite the poor weather. It was raining slightly so I decided to eat in this cute café where I indulged in bread, salad and an omelet with vegetables & cheese that had this amazing sauce made with dill. It cost me equivalent to $6 which is amazing for the amount of food I had. I then began walking to see the churches and city center. I followed a tourist map which I got from the city center that marked key locations of places to see. I would have to say I really enjoyed Riga especially the statues, architecture and river side views. One of the most beautiful cities in the Baltics and quite peaceful. As I walked along the river or stumbled down small narrow ally ways that hosted little boutiques and various shops I felt as I was on a movie set; something surreal. Summer travelers fill the city sreets but it did not feel like a tourist trap as Tallinn had made me feel in its old town. Riga was not what I expected but more than what I could have imagined despite some of the warnings I received about pick pockets and being aware of your surroundings. In general when you are traveling you should be aware of your surroundings and be careful especially at night and no matter where you are in the world.

I then came across the Freedom Monument which was located near a charming little park and waterway with beautiful flowers in various colors, trees with little white blossoms and ducks making their way upstream. I found it interesting that on one of the bridges were the same sort of locks that I had seen in Lithuania with names, hearts and a specific date. Come to find out this bridge is covered with what is known as love padlocks. Each city might have a different perception but in Latvia it is believed that when a couple gets married they put their lock on a bridge and throw away the key into the water below…a sentimental way of saying that the marriage is there to last.

There were many high school kids walking around all dressed up; boys in suits and girls in knee high stockings, short pleated skirts, tied up white button shirts and pig-tails. It was the last day of school and everyone was celebrating; ready for the beginning of summer and school to be over with for the year. I chatted with a group of girls that were incredibly kind who told me all about why they were dressed up and posed with me for a few pictures. After walking for a few hours the sun came out and the city of Riga blossomed as well. The sky was the purest blue; so surreal…so perfect. The complete opposite of what the morning weather had displayed on this beautiful city.

I then continued to watch the changing of the guards at the Freedom Monument; an elderly woman walked up to the base of this structure and placed flowers before it. A somber look upon her face while she held her head down; possibly remembering someone or a particular moment in time that will forever place an impact on her life. It withstood the soviet occupation of Latvia in 1940 and remained standing the entire time under communist rule; giving people hope and remained a symbol of national independence to the people of Latvia. The monument is topped with Lady Liberty holding three gilded stars which represent the three constitutional districts of Latvia; Vidzeme, Latgale and Courland. People lay flowers at its base to remember those lost in war and who fought for their countries freedom.

I had a few hours to spare before my flight…so I was on a quest to find some of the famous Art Nouveau Architecture that make many of these buildings so unique. Many of these pieces covered buildings from the ground up and as I walked down Elizabeta Street I took in all the amazing designs, colors and statues that decorate the sides of these buildings. These structures were magnificent with great detail and interesting depictions of artistic images; Egyptian Sphinx, peacocks, and dragons…the nude female figure and strong masculine warriors.

I then headed back to the hostel to grab my belongings before heading out to the airport where I will be arriving in Bruxelles in only a few hours.

 

Pärnu, Estonia

Thursday: 21 May 2009

The small quaintly town of Pärnu is a place where life is more laid back and during the month of May it can still be slightly cold, quiet and desolate; except for the locals who reside here. Vacant beaches, parks and city streets make this small town the ideal place to just get away and enjoy everything around you. White sand beaches, the sound of miniature waves breaking and the breeze coming off the Gulf of Riga is just what I needed after spending so much time on the road and in the Baltic capitals; Bratislava, Warsaw, Vilnius and Tallinn. The restaurants seem to cater to the influx of tourists that will soon arrive in the coming months in addition to the fact that there are hotels on every corner. However sad enough the town will not remain quiet and it will be hard to actually see the locals go about their daily lives as people from all around flock to the beaches of Estonia to cool off from the hot summer days.

I am sitting here at the bus station writing in my journal due to the fact that my bus time of arrival has changed from 18.55pm to 20.20pm; a bit of a difference but I sit here writing and truly enjoy the sun pressing down on me, warming my hands as I place each word on these pages.

Today I just walked; walked down each street that eventually lead to another and finally came to the beach. Only stopping to see a few monuments and purchase a bottle of Vara Tallinn, Estonian liquor that is strong yet sweet, which will be absolutely delightful on a couple scoops of vanilla ice cream. The visual embrace is the first image that captures someone as they first take in the images of the beach; beautiful white sand, deep blue waters and a long jetty stretching out into the water in the distance. With flowers of white dangling from trees along with other vegetation lining the backside of these sandy shores; separating the actual beach from the concrete sidewalks, ice cream vendors and hotels. As I approached the shoreline I stopped, closed my eyes and took in all the feelings I could in that moment; embracing each of my senses one by one. The smell of ocean spray, the sounds of waves meeting the shore, the wind touching my skin and the taste of nature at its finest; this is what captures my heart when I experience something for the first time. Those moments when everything around me seems to pause and I attempt to take in every element and store it in my memories.

I continued to walk along the beach all the way down to the jetty but to my surprise I came across a seal that was dead and had been washed up along the shore. I have never really seen a seal in the wild and unfortunately when I do it is not alive anyways.

I then continue to walk along the water back into town. Swans swimming, Estonian fishermen, paths leading to the marina; children with small sailboats preparing to go out on the water, couples sits along the waters edge and in parks, the Tallinn gate leads to the old town and beautiful churches give this city a picturesque scene.

Stopping to indulge in a traditional Estonian meal, I ordered the Herring with sour cream & onions and cold boiled potatoes. To my surprise the Herring was served uncooked and even though I love sushi, I was not able to eat it.  I really did try eating this cold raw fish but this was something I am definitely not use to. So I just ate what I could and then when the waitress walked by I asked her if there was any way I could have the fish cooked or at least warmed up in the microwave. I know it is not their custom and I felt bad for asking but I thought I would at least try since I was still hungry. She said no they could not do that and I received my bill. I know they have stoves in the back…the girl next to me has a grilled fish that looks absolutely delicious. I should have just said, “I’ll take whatever she has,” instead of just guessing which one it was. You live and you learn I guess.

I then walked to the bus station to wait to go on to Riga, unfortunately my bus had mechanical problems and I have to wait for the next one to come. As I sat here writing two young Estonian guys stopped to chat with me. They are both 24 years old and have been drinking, hitchhiking and squatting around Estonia since Monday. They gave me a brief but very interesting lesson on the history of Estonia and explained to me how I should not go to Latvia because they do not like people from Latvia. That they have six toes on each foot and that the woman’s vagina is horizontal instead of vertical. I think they were just trying to convince me to stay and party with them though and not go to Latvia; gave me a good laugh. Very cheeky and entertaining and attempted to chat with everyone that passed. I then said good bye to my new friends and then off to Riga I must go. Music plays on the bus radio…’I can’t go down, I get up again; your never going to keep me down.’ This is the perfect song to be listing to after meeting two Estonian youth with backpacks full of beer. American music everywhere I go as well as movies and in many places you can find NY Pizza or TexMex cuisine. Clothes have sayings in English and many giving reference to NYC or LA.

As we proceed across this beautiful land the sun is setting and the countryside is so miraculous; the clouds are low as the fog settles in the fields giving everything a mystic feel to this Estonian landscape. It is somewhat surreal; as if I am in a dream or staring at the brush strokes of Leonardo da Vinci. Fog intertwined within the trees that line the roadways; filling pastures once a profound green into a landscape touched by the sun that radiates an aura of pastel shades of yellows, pinks and greens. Sporadic views of water escapes touched by the setting sun; barns, houses and small dirt roads; the sun peering through the forests of tall lush trees. Probably one of the most memorable sunsets I have ever been privileged to see.

Tallinn, Estonia

Wednesday: 20 May 2009

I arrived in Tallinn around 6:30am today after a long nights sleep on the bus from Vilnius to Tallinn. I had to take the number 2 trolley into the old town where I followed my map to the Old Town Hostel where I will be spending the night. I spent 200 EEK = $15 for one night in this dorm room that held six beds. I had to leave my ruck-pack in the lobby until my room was ready at noon and I headed out to begin my day. I began my explorations with a visit to the port where a fairy travels between Tallinn and Helsinki as well as other Scandinavian cities. The views of the channel that separates Estonia from Finland was not anything spectacular but there were some multicolored condos along the water that looked classy. Old factories and soviet style buildings surround the port and I climbed to the top of the abandoned buildings near the dock to look for even more interesting views of the port.

I then walked through the old town gate to the large church with the noticeable green steeple to get a better glimpse of Tallinn. The climb to the top was all by winding stairs and was a nothing less then a workout; but the view was well worth it. Many churches spread across the horizon; colorful buildings throughout the old town and a Russian Orthodox Church in the near distance stand out among everything with its unique style. To be able to see the old town and the walls that make up a very interesting historical district yet a backdrop of modern hotels and skyscrapers depict the current development of Tallinn most likely since their independence from the USSR. At the top I met a guy from Colorado, James Buttrill, who was also visiting Tallinn for the first time. We talked and visited a few more sites together including the Russian Church and two other magnificent places of worship along with a walk along the city walls and through the city center where we went separate ways.

I then ate at the oldest pub in Tallinn which I enjoyed a goulash, boiled potatoes and a feta and olive salad. I then continued to explore the city before heading back to the hostel to take a long well deserved shower and a short nap. I then woke up around 21.00pm and met two girls who are now staying in my dorm room. One of the girls is from South Korea and the other from Spain who was both studying in Finland and decided to visit Estonia before heading back home. I then walked around looking for something to eat and a little entertainment. I ended up having a Greek salad and then attended ladies night at the gentlemen’s club Stiletto. Free Vodka and orange juice and two male Russian waiters danced to entertain all the girls who had showed up. It was nice to be out and enjoy the music and a couple drinks. I then met a group of guys from Manchester, one guy in particular was very social and told me about their journey across Europe with 100 guys, 10 girls all traveling in cheap cars for 3000 Kilometers. Interesting Euro-trip; I then watched my new Indian friend and some Russian locals sing Karaoke and then I headed back to the hostel to finally get a good nights rest. Tomorrow I will head out to Pärnu to see the beautiful Estonian beaches.

The next morning I walked all the way to the bus station about three kilometers and I got a ticket for the 12.30pm bus to Pärnu. I am now writing in my travel journal and watching the Estonian countryside with bright green grass and fields of yellow flowers that give it the perfect touch. Little farm houses and small sporadic towns break this landscape and remind me there is life among this beautiful stretch of natural scenes.

Vilnius, Lithuania

Tuesday: 19 May 2009

I arrived here in Vilnius at about 7am and conveniently enough the bus station is only five minutes from the old town. Filled with beautiful churches, various items made of amber and the Vilnius Madonna located in the Aušros vartai also known at the ‘Gates of Dawn.’ Pilgrims from different areas come to see the dark face of the Vilnius Madonna hoping for consolation from the Mother of Compassion. The Gates of Dawn…Mother of Compassion painting is the only one of miraculous images in Lithuania that is so widely renowned for its healing power. Amber is indigenous to the region and is a popular element seen shop windows and sold on the streets by vendors.

Vilnius is an amazingly beautiful city, relaxing and I really felt at home here in Lithuania. Given that some of my family on my dad’s side of the family is originally from Lithuania I did not find this very surprising. I trekked up one of the hillsides to where the Gedimino Castle resides. As I reached the top I could feel the lack of sleep set in from the past few days and with it being so early and no one around I found I place where I could climb over the wall surrounding the castle, with impressive panoramic views of the city, to take a nap before further explorations. I woke up to kids climbing on the wall to look over the edge and giggling. As I opened my eyes they were watching me sleep, amused that I was sleeping on the hillside and that nobody knew I was there. I felt so refreshed and ready to take a tour of the museum and see even better views of the city from the top of the castle. It was impressive to see the river flowing through the city with a couple bridges stretching form one side to the other, church steeples and various parks; absolutely remarkable! After returning to the city below I came to a restaurant known as Forto Dvaras; traditional Lithuanian dishes and outside dinning grabbed my attention. I glanced at the menu and decided to order Vichy (bottled still water) and Didzkukuliai su mesa irg which is a potato dumpling filled with meat with a sour cream sauce on the side. Marvelous! Probably one of the best meals I have ever had in Europe…I would just love to learn how to make this at home.

After lunch I decided to search for something made of Amber for my mom. Store after store, the search went on as I struggled to find that perfect something for my mom. I had browsed in nearly fifteen different stores looking for that perfect item made of this unique stone; until I found a dragonfly pendent with various shades of amber which was a little different from what I wanted but would be great none the less. I also got myself one so we could have similar pendants from this beautiful country. Of all the amber deposits in the world, probably the most famous and certainly the largest is that of the Baltic region. It represents some 80% of the worlds known amber resource and the deposits range between 35 to 40 million years old.

I then set off in quest for the Three Crosses Hill to see the views and take pictures of these beautiful crosses. It was a hike up to the top but I finally made it. The sky appeared fascinating with the sun out, deep grayish blue sky and you could feel the moisture in the air as if nature was holding back its tears of joy as I beheld something so beautiful. To add to this moment I was the only one on top of this peak; giving the ambiance of pure serenity. With these views of the city I could see the castle where I was only a few hours prior and the balance between nature and humanity is in perfect unison within this captivating European capital. I then continued to hike through the mountainside, down unknown paths eventually coming to an old track stadium where young cadets in uniform practiced marching and took commands. “Left, right, about face…forward march,” yet all in the native Lithuanian tongue which I could follow since each statement commanded the cadets in a specific direction. Reminded me of my days in high school when I participated in JROTC and learned to be part of a team, take orders and give commands as I received the training to potentially become a soldier in the United States Military. I relaxed on the benches in the open air arena and just watched as I took in my surroundings and enjoyed the fresh air.

I continued on crossing a few bridges and exploring the newly developed downtown with modern architecture and high-rises which included the business district, Opera house and theatre; modern and yet uninteresting since it does not depict the cultural influence and uniqueness compared to the other areas of Vilnius. I then continued on to the area better known as Uzupis; supposedly they developed their own constitution and their own district is considered an official yet unofficial breakaway state as of 1998. It is known to be the home of artists, dreamers, squatters; young Lithuanians chatting in cafés or reading books. On the bridge crossing back into the old town there were locks on the bridges, many in different colors, styles, shapes and sizes with the names of two people and a date as well. This in itself seemed artistic and intriguing as a depiction of love between two people; the whole little area gave the feel of Bohemian life.

I really enjoyed Vilnius and continued to explore some more before I made my way back to the bus station. This was one of my favorite locations in Eastern Europe and I would just love to return and plan to one day soon.

Warsaw, Poland

Monday: 18 May 2009

As I prepared to leave for Warsaw I found a plug to charge my phone and check my text messages from the day since I have not had the chance to charge my phone. The first message I read was from Mikayla telling me to remember that L’viv is an hour ahead the time zone in Poland.

What!?! So your telling me it is actually 21.45pm right now…the bus left fifteen minutes ago.

I began to panic and went straight to the ticket lady and showed her my ticket and pointed at my wrist watch; frantically worrying that I may have to miss Warsaw and try and find a hostel at this hour. She then picked up the phone, made a phone call and then rushed me out of the station to a taxi and told him where to take me. They asked how much money I had on me and showing them I only have what is equivalent to three dollars the cab driver looked a little disappointed but then nodded his head and opened the door to his unmarked car and I shoved my ruck-pack into the back seat. Driving through the outskirts of L’viv, past fields and through smaller towns; fifteen minutes go by and I start to get a little nervous. With the panic that overcame me I did not even pause to think that I just got in the back of some car with a guy who does not even speak English. I really hope that he is taking me to meet up with the bus; he could be heading anywhere and I willingly got in the back of that car and just went with this stranger. We then approached what looked to be a movie theater with a lot of people and as we pulled around the back of the building be approached the bus. Talk about relief! I was so happy to get on that bus and head back to Poland. I walked down the aisle and got many different looks from those who were on the bus waiting; I was just happy that I did not have to wait for the next bus to get out of Ukraine. My place was located in the back, in cramped quarters and no leg room especially since the seats faced each other and there was only about eight inches in between the two rows. A mother and daughter sat across from me and the girl looked about eight years of age; very kind eyes with a beautiful smile. I settled in and relaxed and not before long I soon fell asleep; a few hours later I was then woken up by a female border patrol officer asking for my passport. She then made a comment in Polish that sounded stern and was slightly intimidating particularly since I did not know what she needed. Someone was kind enough to translate and told me she was unsure about my passport picture and wanted to see an additional id. She was also questioning why I had come to Ukraine for less than 24 hours. I later found out that there are issues with smuggling stuff into the EU (not to sure what) through Ukraine into Poland; therefore questioning those who have short visits across this border is not uncommon due to this issue. They then had us unload the bus and take our bags to be x-rayed and in the mean time they extensively searched the bus. As I stood there waiting I glanced over and spotted an electrical plug and made my way through the cramped quarters to charged my phone. As I waited I called Tibi to let him know where I was and the situation I was faced with just in case anything happened. We then loaded back onto the bus and after sitting through check points for five hours we were again on our way and eventually arrived in Warsaw at 11.30am. I then charged my phone for a little while and talked to Tiberiu for a few minutes; stressed from the long journey to Warsaw I wanted to hear his voice and he has a tendency to make me feel less stressed and always puts a smile on my face.

I then took bus 517 to the Centrum where I walked along the busy and very developed city streets. To cross the streets there are underground walk ways lined with a steady flow of people walking from one side to the next. I ended up passing a restaurant called ‘Green Way’ which had a line out the door and the food looked amazing. I began to walk past it but soon turned around in hopes that I found a good place to eat. Waiting in line for my turn and yet the menu was on the wall all in Polish and no pictures. How will I know what to get? I am starting to understand what it is like for those tourists who come to visit the states and do not know what to order as they gaze at the menu unsure to what it actually says. I then looked at those walking by with something that I would like to try and I stopped a young man and asked if he spoke English; he replied yes and then I continued to ask what he had on the menu. Tort Warzywny, I’ll take it, so I ordered this vegetable tort in addition to a banana shake. It was amazing but very filling.

I then continued to walk and eventually approached a beautiful park that had a large fountain with many statues of Greek gods. In front of the entrance way stood the tomb of an unknown soldier with two guards watching over his resting place. A remarkable formation of flowers with various colors decorated the area around the tomb and many flower bouquets lay about in various assortments.

I found a bench in a remote location of the park and decided to relax and take a nap; as I awoke I felt refreshed after eating such a huge meal. Continuing with my exploration of the city I eventually found the old town.

The exhibition “Co-existence” was on display with artistic billboards depicting various views on the idea of co-existing within our society with those who may be different from our selves. And under these images were quotes, stories and ideas on the subject; very inspirational and was interesting to see. In addition a different exhibit was being displayed in one of the small parks which incorporated numerous aerial images of Warsaw during World War II that were recently recovered. To view these images is heart breaking but Warsaw has experienced a new image and it is a beautifulsight to see despite the amount of construction and development.  I believe Warsaw will be an even more amazing city in the future and I will look forward to returning to see these changes. Before heading back to the bus station I indulged in some of the most amazing fudge chocolate ice cream I have ever experienced. As I strolled along the cobble stone roads the smell of sweets, bread and other Polish foods filled the air; this was only one of the many highlights of being here in Warsaw.

‘Green Way’ Vegetarian Restaurant: http://www.greenway.pl/

Off the Beaten Path: L’viv, Ukraine

Sunday: 17 May 2009

After visiting Krakow and Auschwitz I left at 21.50pm for L’viv, Ukraine. I do not really know what to expect and I am excited all at the same moment.

We stopped at the border for a few hours to get through border patrol since Ukraine is not part of the European Union and is not part of the Schengen Agreement. I got a stamp form Poland and Ukraine to add to the many pages of visas, stamps and proof of my previous travels throughout the world. As we pulled in to the bus station I questioned my choice to come to Ukraine solo especially since all the signs are in Cyrillic and English is not a prominent language and is spoken by few. Sometimes even hand signals do not cut it since body language is not necessarily universal.

As I was in line to buy a return ticket back to Poland for that evening I overheard four young students speaking English with an obvious American accent. Contemplating exactly how long they should stay in L’viv; I stepped in to voice my opinion. They were simply there to renew their EU visas since they did not obtain a student visa for their studies in Warsaw and were only allowed to stay in the European Union for ninety days. After introducing myself; I began convincing them to stay and visit this majestic city that vividly demonstrates a perfect example of gothic architecture and is proclaimed to be a beautiful example of post-soviet society. I would leave L’viv at 21.30pm for Warsaw a few hours after my new American friends which gave me a little more time to explore the city well into the evening. I also asked if I may join them in their explorations and we soon located the number 5 trolley into the city center.

While walking around at 7am everything seems desolate and the city almost seems abandoned except for the occasional plump little old lady crossing the street or young man walking to church on this Sunday morning in L’viv. Nothing is yet open and no sign of coffee or a place to relax is in sight; while signs on doors inform us that almost everything does not open until 10 or 11am we have no idea what to do until then. So we just walked around taking in all the sights; the unique architecture and rich cultural differences that make Ukraine so enchanting were around every corner. As we continue to walk a glimpse of those golden arches catch our eye and we had finally found something open at this hour to help us warm up with a cup of coffee and to get a bite to eat for breakfast. I know…McDonald’s does not truly give the insight into Ukrainian coffee or cultural habits but it was the only option at the break of day on a Sunday morning. Afterwards we asked in what direction the high castle was and then took off for the target of our explorations.

We walked along roads that looked as if they were destroyed from war and obviously lacked the attention of reconstruction that was much needed. I was curious as to how cars even drove on these remote streets in these shanty neighborhoods. Amid these sights chatted little old ladies dressed in old rags, bright colors and head scarves; sitting on the steps of apartment entrance ways. It was as if stepping into the past yet trivial indications make the scene a reality with cell phones in hand even by the elderly women who look as peasants from earlier times.

Stray cats and dogs roam the streets and old buildings, churches and other structures capture your heart; to imagine that this city has not really changed much from previous generations. Some cities have been refurbished with the complete reconstruction and replication of buildings destroyed from World War II and the Cold War; designed to appear older then they actually are but this is not necessarily the case in L’viv. Gothic styles with renaissance, baroque and neo classical buildings are evident as we walked along the city streets and hiked up the hillside to the ruins of the high castle that overlooks the magnificent city. Panoramic views of the old city gave an ideal insight into how large this city truly is; to be able to see the steeples and select areas that we had already wandered through at an aerial view was sincerely a picturesque experience. As we made our way down the highest point in the city; we just let our intuition and the visual appeal to guide our journey through the streets of L’viv. Market places, cafés, art galleries and museums at every turn. We ate at a café that seemed to be a popular local dining place and ate a variety of cheese from platters, tomato salad, salmon crepes and Turkish coffee. Delicious!!!

We then made our way to the city center where blue skies and the smells of various cuisines filled the air; these now animated streets were much more appealing then when we first arrived in this Eastern European city. This sight would alter any ones previous opinion of this beautiful city drastically with the presence of people walking the streets; when everything comes to life. I then said bye to my new friends from West Virginia and continued to take in more of the city. I saw an accident where a car hit a trolley, met two kind Ukrainian guys from Kiev that gave me a short tour and brief history of L’viv along with Ukraine. They told me I should try the traditional Ukrainian beet soup and that they always fancy escaping the busy lifestyle of Kiev to have a relaxing weekend in this beautiful western Ukraine city. We then went our separate ways and I returned to the bus station where I would board the night bus heading to Warsaw; another nights sleep on a bus and not in a comfortable bed.

Miłość jest w Powietrzu: Love is in the Air

I find Eastern Europe very romantic and it seems to be a region where everyone is happy to be in love; long embraces and sweet kisses. The couples walk not only holding hands but with arms wrapped around each other. Park benches, statues, fountains, walk ways; everywhere you go you are confronted with the enchantment and impression that love is in the air. People are engulfed by the love and companion that shares these beautiful moments with them. As if nothing else matters and no one else exists. Huge smiles with soft whispers and giggles to express delight that will touch anyone’s heart that may be honored to see such a sight. Deep stares and gentle kisses show the affection that individual may feel for that one person that you care so much about. L’viv, Warsaw, Vilnius, Parnu; just a few cities that caught my attention when it came to matters of the heart and seeing two people in love. It is the Eastern European custom to show their feeling so openly for another and public display of affection is customary to show her you really do care and are not ashamed of your love together.

Is this Krakow?

Friday: 15 May 2009

So I arrived in Poland safe and sound; I still don’t know how I made it to Krakow. I cannot say it compared to the train ride from Litochoro to Athens on the overnight week-end route. As I wait for the train in the Bratislava station I met a young girl, Rachel, from Nebraska and she is studying in Prague. She was very kind and asked me my opinion about what I think her next step in life should be…unknowing what she wants to continue studying; she has thought about taking some time off to stay in a religious retreat in Scotland. I told her that she should follow her heart and do it if that is what she felt was right but to maybe stay for the summer and not necessarily a full year. Upon the trains arrival we headed in opposite directions but I yelled to her my name so I hope she finds me on Facebook so I can find out what her she is doing with her life. It was difficult to find my train car since nobody knew exactly which one was Krakow; they unhook and re-connect each car to other trains along the way and if on the wrong train…Moscow here I come!

As I attempted to board the guy checking tickets on the platform said I would have to pay an additional 30 Euros to get a sleeper which he said I had to do; after already paying 45 Euros for my train ticket to begin with. I told him I did not have it and that I did not want a sleeper so I sat in the entrance way to the train next to the bathrooms. I was not going to pay even more to ride this train and I stood by my decision. I then had to switch at the second stop and climbed on a train that was being connected to another car. I got to see the worker give instructions to the conductor in Polish and as I was watching an Austrian guy peered in from the other car waving and smiling while taking pictures of me. He asked me over to his car and I questioned if they were heading in the same direction as I was. They said sure why not and so I came over there and met a team of Austrian Ultimate paintball who were on their way to Warsaw for a tournament. Funny, entertaining, beer drinking, banana throwing; getting yelled at by the ticket girl about smoking in the bathrooms and Mama Mia theme song playing on the iPod. Patrick, Christian, Stefan and Min-u Seo were a few of the guys from Austria that were so kind to keep me company.

Min-u gave me a seat in his sleeper to give me a chance to relax and have a seat. I then said my good-byes as I ran from one train to the next. I then got situated in a seat where I sat with three other guys and fell asleep rather quickly given that it was 3am. Next stop…Krakow!

Saturday: 16 May 2009

I was so exhausted at 6am when I arrive that I just sat and collected myself before eating at Mc Donald’s when it opened at 7am. OJ, coffee, breakfast sandwich and hash browns for 9 PLK=$3. Nice…I love Eastern Europe already. At around 9am I continued to the bus station where I cleaned up and caught the 10am bus to Auschwitz to visit the concentration camps for the day; a two hour trip we traveled through the countryside and it was interesting to se the post-iron curtain architectural landscape; vast acres of land and bundles of dark brown hay bundled at the top and actually somewhat thin.

Then we arrived! I did not know what to expect and for a moment there I hesitated to proceed knowing that many people suffered in this camp and the thought of possibly members of my family being held in these walls or the families of those close to me was slightly disturbing. The Iron entrance gate read “Arbeit Macht Frei”…translation “work makes one free.”
It was through this gate that the prisoners walked each morning on their way to work in the factories, marching to the beat of music played by the camp orchestra. Barbed wire fences, lined up brick buildings with numbers indicating which block it is; 15, 24, 19…each holds a story or pain and suffering that the people who where held here endured. Each block which once held Jews, Poles, Roma, political prisoners of war, and traitors of the Nazis in the 1940s now housed their belongings; luggage, toothbrushes, shoes and hair. Pictures of prisoners with shaved heads male or female line the walls; documents and models on how this camp was run and vivid accounts of medical procedures where twins were treated as lab rats. Atrocities were committed here in this camp during World War II to innocent individuals who were caught in the middle of war.

The slight drizzle of rain seemed appropriate as this is a site that is dreary in itself and it is sad to think that many innocent people lost their lives in these camps. I also toured Birkenau or better known at Auschwitz II which was the location where these people exited the trains and lined up on the platform where they awaited to see if they were to be placed in the camp or sent to the incinerators. Walking that stretch of gravel road stirred weary emotions and thoughts of what each persons last thoughts were as they walked to their death; walked to what is now rubble left behind from the Germans attempt of destroying the evidence of these gas chambers, incinerators and mass genocide. Numerous thoughts raced through my mind as I thought about the children, women, elderly, ill walking all this way; leaving their belongings on the platform and not knowing what is next. There were instances where the gas did not kill everyone and as they unloaded the bodies from the building and found those gasping for air; the Nazi guards shot them.

There was one case where a guard found his uncle among those walking to the showers and the uncle looked at his nephew and asked “what is going on?” The guard knew he could not do anything about the situation so he diverted his attention by asking if he was hungry and gave him some bread. He told him to stand near the ’showers’ to stay warm; knowing that it would make his death quicker and less painful.

There were over a million men, women and children killed at Auschwitz it is sad to see the pictures of those killed hanging from the walls; many with colored eyes and light hair. Many who just born a certain nationality and punished for it. I then headed back to Krakow to visit the old town for a couple hours before leaving for L’viv.