Belize it or Not…Abroad again!

Thursday, 2^nd June 2011

I find it interesting as I stare out into the world from this airplane window how the blue waters of the Caribbean merge into one with the sky easily distorting our concept of where exactly these two worlds collide. Billowing clouds are strewn about in the distance; flashbacks of childhood memories fill my mind as I envision a time when I would lie there beneath the heavens, staring up at what looked to me like beds of cotton. Imagining what it would be like to feel the soft touch of these distant clouds while sharing my perception of what each silhouette portrays as I point out figures of distorted hearts, animals and sail boats. However, 20 years later I now gaze down on these same white clouds, from up above they look more dynamic as you can see more dimensions and the sun reflects upon them in a way which places shadows in just the right places.

The Caribbean Sea depicts the bluest waters along the coastal outline of Mexico. The deep blue sea fades into turquoise and then lighter blue sections which reflect the location of shallow sand bars that can be seen perfectly from this aerial view. The contour of white sand coastlines look as if they separate the blue shading of the seascape from the deep green interior of what seems to be the southern stretch of Mexico leading down to Belize. The shores of the Yucatán cater to crowds of tourists looking for pristine beaches to escape to and small fishing villages in between can be seen as you gaze below yet when you look out beyond the coastal development the terrain of the Central American jungle.

The closer we get to Belize the lighter the water becomes as we fly above stretches of the Cayes and the second largest barrier reef located right off the coast of this former British colony. The scenes that embody Harrison Ford’s, “Mosquito Coastline” flash in my mind as this movie filmed almost 30 years prior still seem to sum up what you can imagine to expect this country to look like especially since many of the villages still remain hidden beneath the dense jungle terrain.

Dark gray smoke rolls upward from sporadic points in the distance where flames engulf acres of land. Ecological destruction, environmental air pollution, property damage, disaster management and public health at its finest; questions already begin emerging as I peer down upon the uncontrolled span of fire. Is this a common occurrence, how are they caused and what is the impact to human life; does this country have the resources to stop these billowing flames from spreading further into villages within its path?

As we descend lower and lower, I gaze upon the tarmac surrounded by green tropical palms and only a few structures. Then the small International Airport appears in my window as we pull in front of this two-story building probably the size of a football field and merely large enough to host three to five planes at a time. I wait to disembark this aircraft, to walk down these stairs which lead to the beginning of my adventures over the course of the next four weeks here in Belize; to extend my knowledge in the field of public health research in a country that needs the tools and data to lead them in the right direction. I glance out toward the airport as I descend from Flight AA2173; Welcome to Belize…Bienvenido a Belice!

Debbie, Caitlin and I meet up with our advisor from the University of South Florida, Dr. Westhoff, before going through the immigration check-point where I receive another stamp in my passport.  Country number thirty-one that I have now had the pleasure in visiting. We grab our belongings and head toward an area where three other people have their personal effects pulled out of their luggage and airport security is rummaging through it looking possibly for items that were unclaimed. I feel my stomach tighten as I think back on how difficult it was to tightly roll each piece of clothing and jam it in my Ruck-pack along with my queen-size sheet, bath towel, hiking boots, and other personal items. We stand there waiting for our turn and luckily we are waved on through by-passing this tedious task. What a relief…I was so worried I would have problems getting everything back into my one bag again!

As we enter the main area of the airport you can see from one side to the other with one glance, very small indeed. We then ascend the stairs where a sign points us in the direction of the Restaurant. Humidity and the summer heat are overwhelming but we find a fan to sit in front of to cool off. The others order a cold Belizean beer of either Belikin or Lighthouse while I order bottled water in fear that my parasite will cause me pain.

Last September, shortly after my return from Peru, I went out to celebrate my best-friend Chala’s 26^th birthday. Only 30 seconds after taking my first drink of a Vodka & Cranberry cocktail I began having sharp pains in my abdomen and as it became stronger and stronger I almost felt as if I would pass out from the intensity. After about 45 minutes the pain disappeared but ever since then each time I attempt to drink liquor, wine or beer the pain comes back and then lasts about 30 minutes. At first I thought I had an ulcer but I continue to eat spicy foods and anything else I desire with no problem. The only other explanation is that I must have ingested some sort of bacterium that becomes irritated when I consume alcohol. Not having a job and limited income, I cannot afford health insurance like many people throughout the United States so unfortunately I have not been able to consult a physician on the matter.

We sit and wait almost two hours for Stacey to arrive; she decided not to book the same flight as us and we must wait until she arrives before we are able to venture out to our new home in Belmopan. Belmopan is located about 60 miles from the coast of Belize and happens to be the smallest capital city in the world with a population of about 7,000 people. I really do not know what to anticipate for the coming weeks, what to expect in regards to the landscape and what the culture and people of Belize will be like.

There is an outside patio overlooking the tarmac of the airport from the second floor, where a thin dandelion yellow iron fence that curves out and then down; the only thing separating the people from where the planes board and take-off. No security to pass or check-points to be able to enjoy viewing those coming and going. Much different from the changes that have occurred over the past fifteen years in the design and procedures in airports throughout the United States. A Mennonite family of about eleven women and children stand along the wall gazing past the fence…watching the planes land, people pile out as they walk toward the building and disappear beneath us; others then board the empty plane and then take off to unidentified destinations. They find entertainment in watching the events of an airport just like when I was a child and my own mother would take my brother and I to watch the planes land and take off. To a child the simplicity of such events is fascinating and to my mother it was cheap. It did not cost a penny to watch from the airport windows the events unfolding outside.

We talk among ourselves about Belize, school and our thoughts on various topics.  Stacey eventually arrives as I stand outside and watch her walk off the stairs of the Taca plane arriving from El Salvador.  We then met up with Dr. Ismael Hoare who will be our host supervisor from the University of Belize and has taken the time to pick us up from the airport to ensure our safe arrival in Belmopan.

We pile into his SUV and begin our hour and a half drive to where we will be staying during our international field experience.  Dr. Hoare shares with us various information about the difficulties facing the people of Belize while pointing out landmarks along the way; Hattiville…the refugee village named after the devastating hurricane that struck Belize in 1961, the only national prison which houses men and women but in separate quarters, the Belize Zoo and the Police Academy.

I ask about the fires that can be seen as you fly in and he shares with us the problems they experience during the dry season; burned trash, crops and unregulated flames are actually a regular occurrence during this time of year.  Yet, it does not seem to be a threat to many people as they tend to occur away from populated areas.  We travel along the Western Highway but after 24 hours of being awake and feeling drained the long drive is taking a toll on me as I try my best to refrain from drifting off to sleep.

Around 6pm we arrive in Belmopan, wait for Dr. Westhoff and then proceed to meet with the lady who has arranged a place to stay for the four of us. Initially we had planned to have two homes set up with three people in each at about $300 to $400 per month; however a week prior one of the students who was to accompany us had a family emergency resulting in her having to change her plans.  Additionally, one of the other students from the Engineering department changed her plans to insure Stacey would have someone with her during the second part of the summer.  It was now our job to determine if the four of us would be able to rent only one of the homes to reduce costs and to inform the realtor Marissa of the change in plans.  Initially you could hear the frustration in her voice pertaining to the fact that we did not inform her of the change in plans.  After going back and forth for some time, negotiating the cost and then calculating charges incurred through cleaning and providing bedding for the unoccupied home we determined that it would come to $2,355 for two months including a $255 charge for unused bedding and cleaning; then a $300 deposit for the electricity bill.  I placed $150 in addition to the cost of my portion to cover the rent for July until Suzie’s arrival when she will pay us her share.  Seemed to be a mess but eventually we were able to work it out before having the opportunity to head over to the home we will be occupying for the coming month.

Sea green with a large front porch, an Iron Gate and old swing set; three bedrooms and two baths, our own kitchen, bar, dining room and even a washer and dryer.  What else could we ask for?  Caitlin and Debbie claim the master bedroom and then I tell Stacey I will volunteer to stay in the least desirable room since she will be staying longer than me.  You may ask what I mean by undesirable…in other words Disturbing!  A pale yellow with a white washed closest door, light pink curtains that drift upward when the breeze flows through the window panes.  A lonely white plastic lawn chair sits in the corner of the room; the only distinctive element in the room is the eerie light switch with two children holding balloons, the eyes pop out in an unusual way and the thought of this room previously being a room for children is troubling in itself. I begin collecting random pieces of furniture to alter the feel of the room and then hang my belonging from nails that remain in the wall from previous tenants. Soon enough the room begins to feel more comfortable and feasible to live in.

Tomorrow we will settle into Belmopan and take the opportunity to explore the University of Belize after meeting with Dr. Hoare to discuss what the following week will entail.

Star Gazing in the Andes

Monday: August 9^th 2010

As the sun sets behind the Andes Mountains, the white snow-capped peaks begin to lose the bright majestic effect which makes them stand out among the other surrounding summits in the distance. Still visible with the outline of our tents pitched in the shadow of this vast mountain; the scene looks picturesque as I gaze across the rows of tents that make-up our first night’s camp site. We escape the cold into a long green tent to enjoy a dinner of stuffed beef steak, rice and mashed potatoes by candle light. The ideal dinner to indulge in as we exchange stories of various travels and thrilling adventures with our new hiking companions Allyson and Kat.

The laughter fills the empty space as we continue our Peruvian cuisine and the night couldn’t seem to get any better.

But as I stepped out beneath the pitch black night sky; it was one of the most marvelous sights I have ever seen. Faint outlines of mountains surround us with a sky painted in stars. I have never seen so many stars visible from any point in the world that I have ventured to like that night in Peru.  While the moon was nowhere in sight to spoil this vast emptiness; we are now in a distant valley far from civilization and the pollution of city lights. The Milky Way stretches across the sky outlining where our journey began all the way to where Mount Salkantay could once be seen; a river separating the sky into two halves extending across the universe, as if outlining our path over the mountains that we will explore during the next few days to the ruins of Machu Picchu. The cold leaves my mind as the beautiful sky overpowers my senses.

The others are asleep now at 9pm since we must wake up at 5am to continue our journey.  I sit here surrounded by the cover of darkness.  From time to time I stop to write how I feel in this moment  and of my first day trekking through the mountains of Peru, as a flashlight illuminates the pages of my journal.

Shooting stars, the sound of running water, dogs barking in the distance and the faint chatter of Spanish tongue; most likely the guides discussing the days ahead. Other than that I sit alone for what seems like a life time with the blanket of stars above me. And I feel as if those are the only two things that matter at this point in my trek.  At -15 degrees in the shadow of the mountain it will be hard to find a good nights sleep but to be laying under a Peruvian sky of such beauty; there is nowhere else I would rather be at this moment in time.

After a while, Edgar stops to talk with me about legends of these stars passed down from generation to generation as visions of animals and religious symbols can be seen in the pure darkness and among the constellations in the Southern night sky. He shows me where the stars form the Cruz de Sur which carry a deep symbolism within Quechua mysticism.  The most famous constellation not only in Peruvian culture but for Australians, South Africans, Maori, Japanese, Brazilians or any culture that rests south of the Equator.  The same constellation with simply a different name from Cruz de Sur (Spanish), the Southern Cross (English), Acrux (Latin), Te Punga (Maori), or Cruzerio Do Sol (Portuguese).

He then points to my right to show me the Alpha and Beta Centauri, bringing to my attention the two brightest stars low in the Peruvian sky believed to be the Eyes of the Llama peering down on us from above. The Llama has played an important role in Peruvian society as they depend on these animals to endure life in the high Andes.  Sacrificial ceremonies in which the lives of hundreds of llamas were given to the gods, shows just how important and sacred these animals were during the Inca Empire. And in some sacrificial festivals even children became honored human sacrifices for honoring the most special ceremonies following drought, famine, an earthquake or even an eclipse.  Elders of the ancient Quechua people during the Inca reign told tales of nature and animal gods that have been passed on through the centuries. These tales continue to be told as we visit various ruins designed to honor these gods and now the people of Peru gladly share with us the stories that they have been told as children. As Edgar points out constellations that are common knowledge to the people of Peru; it is intriguing to hear legends of a sky that is different from that viewed in the Northern Hemisphere.

When I stare up at the sky from my home in the United States I look for the North Star, the Big dipper or Orion’s Belt; in Peru the Eyes of the Llama and the Southern Cross are something common for those here who know not of the constellations I have seen so many times from the pastures of Texas or beaches of Florida.

And I gaze upon the sky as if really looking at it for the first time and knowing I will never forget this moment when I really saw the stars locked in the dark universe luring above the Peruvian Andes at the base of Mt. Salkantay.

http://unawe.org/joomla/images/TALES/2.the%20legend%20of%20yacana_01.pdf

Los Secretos del Cusco

Sunday: 8^th August 2010

Bright and early at 8:45am I awoke in eager desires to begin my day in this UNESCO World Heritage Site in which reading about all the gems that capture this city made waking up an easy task. Carmen and I ventured off into the city below to get a taste of Cusco after getting everything ready for the upcoming trek and reserving a couple more nights at Loki upon our return the following weekend.

Downward toward the vibrant city below, the beautiful Iglesias de San Francisco stands with doors open, welcoming us in as we take a pew toward the back as Sunday mass proceeds in Spanish tongue however Latin transcript arcs above the altarpieces that are the highlight of this historical structure. Gazing upon simplistic architecture that features bare stone walls of concrete blocks in gray tones with neo-gothic art and antique images; a neoclassical altar of cedar portraying images of St. Francis of Assisi and the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception amongst other spiritual figures unknown to me. As I glance to my right, the door stands open where the city can be seen from this very seat I have been bestowed; hazy, luminesce, picturesque image of breathtaking beauty in something so simplistic as the rays of sun breaching the entrance of a dimly lit Cathedral. Dark silhouettes of bodies pass by these doors; some peer in to simply satisfy their curiosity while others cross this threshold as their figures now become clear and a face emerges from behind this wall of illumination. To know these doors have been open since the 16^th Century, to know I am one of many, and to know so many before me have embraced something they believe in and that gives them faith renders me unable to fathom the degree at which history embraces every element around me.

Bustling life outside of these church walls embrace our reappearance as culture fills the air with unique scents and different scenes from what we are normally use to. Peruvian women prepare fresh juices while stirring the contents in five gallon buckets, different colors with platters with fresh cut lemons set on unfamiliar herbs that look freshly cut. A little child dressed in an alpaca sweater and denim panama style hat, stands out among the crowd as he eats a large triangle of fresh watermelon and runs behind his mother as he grasps her hand to insure he is not forgotten.

The sultry Peruvian sun beats down upon us as we walk down side streets to the Plaza de Armas, the focal point and city centre of Cusco. It was once the heart of the Incan capital known as ‘huacaypta’. Colonnaded buildings with restaurants and balconies encompassing tables which overlooking city scenes, terracotta tiles on rooftops, and touts waiting to hassle and haggle their merchandise or services to anyone willing to match their low bids. Artists selling traditional paintings, designer sunglasses, guided tours…fruits, vegetables, full body massages, just about anything you may think of and even things you might not know what they are; that’s right, anything to make a few soles! A demonstration fills the thoroughfare as those protesting march along the streets chanting for change and holding signs and flags in the air. Alan Ratero vende el GAS de Tu Trasero!

A beautiful fountain lays in the center square surrounded by vibrant flowers, lush green grass and trees small in stature. Locals, tourists, young and old fill the streets as stray dogs lounge on patches of green and bound across city streets. Colonial baroque architecture is depicted through the towering Cathedral and La Compania, the backdrop of this city centre where Francisco Pizarro declared Cusco under Spanish rule changing this once Incan city from beautiful palaces and temples to a new style of European flavor.

Darren, an adventurer from Los Angeles, began chatting with Carmen and making our acquaintance as he shared his former adventures in Central America, Columbia down to Peru and now off to Argentina. It made me think of my solo travels through the Baltics and I insisted that he join us in our explorations of Cusco. Passing through the old prison doors we searched for an access to the rooftops overlooking the Plaza de Armas where we had seen others peer from behind the tops of the building to snap pictures from above. A middle-age man asks us if we would like to go up top, 10 soles each for a peak as picturesque images of the city from a different angle. A narrow stairway through darkness, leading to the top of these arched ceilings; where walking along terracotta shingles leads to the edge of the building which overlooks the magnificent city of Cusco. To view the Cathedral an old ladder stretches across the roof to the ledge of the prison face; Darren and I took turns embracing the site as Carmen sat back watching and searching onward for her own views of the valley.

Next we headed out in search of traditional Peruvian cuisine. The market in which we explored yesterday is the site where Anthony Bourdain experienced one of his first dishes on his adventures through Peru. Lomo Saltado, sopa y Coca tea for three of us; masses of food and exactly what I desired for only 12.5 soles. This is equivalent to five U.S. dollars which fed all three of us. Amazing! Considerably different from the restaurants that charge tourists higher prices and poor quality food. A little shopping and exploring the many vendors in the market was essential before heading out to Pisac.

We shared a taxi through town toward a location where a local bus station stood. As he dropped us off we glanced around but not a bus in sight; as I attempted to ask a woman holding her babe where exactly the bus station is, practicing the Spanish words over and over in my head as my first words just about to leave my lips, yet all of a sudden she began nursing the child. Hmmm…as I began backing away, feeling like I was interrupting this natural act of life but at the same time feeling a little awkward that this women sees me approaching and busts out one of her breasts possibly in attempt to redirect my questioning elsewhere. Eventually I found a man walking across the street and asked if he could direct us to the bus station and as he pointed to what looked like a building be began walking toward it and what do you know there it is. One bus filled and departed while we paid the young man in the ticket both a few soles to get on the next bus to Pisac. As we waited two little Peruvian girls chatted with me about where I was from and what my name was. Curiosity and full of life with smiles greeting my every word, giggles filled the air as my attempt to speak Spanish amused them beyond words. As we packed into the oversized van we made our way to the top of the valley requesting to exit the bus where the Tambomachay ruins lay about 11km from Cusco.

Llamas and alpacas sauntering past in our first time seeing these prominent Peruvian creatures. While Incan ruins line the paths, each detail indicating a representation of fertility and the power animals of Incan civilization. Stone structures finely carved, aqueducts and waterfalls where springs emerge from the foothills are believed to be where the Inca worship the water which is one of the pillars of the Andean conception of the world. El Bano del Inca, is an architectural wonder of sacred beauty and deeper meaning in every carving and placement of stone. Where noblemen of the Empire and the Inca worshiped this source of life and where harmonious creations by Andean architects fit perfectly among the landscape; the sounds of the small river flowing from the mountain, serenity and seclusion. A boy showed us along describing the details and meanings behind his proud heritage as he described symbolic elements indicating each level of earth, each structure and the placement of how they direct the water flow all depicts their praise toward the power animals. This sacrificial site was designed to give to the Gods for fertility and growth, prayers to be able to embrace a robust harvest for the Inca people while showing their appreciation for life.

The serpent, the puma and the condor, central images of the Inca civilization as these three Gods were important elements in the lives of these people. The snake represents intellect, knowledge, the underworld and the past; while Spanish conquerors demolished these figures many depictions of the serpent remain as proof that this Andean culture was of demonic faith. The puma symbolizes courage, internal strength and the present; the prime concept of life and of foremost importance as the Inca believed living completely in the present as the moral ideal of their culture. Each day should be taken for what it has to offer which leads to an appreciation of beauty in life. The condor is what people should strive for; balance, the future and life beyond our dimension while soaring the heavens.

We walked further down to remaining sites, each capturing beauty in its own right and wonders stirring as to the meanings beyond our knowledge. Hitchhiking down to Cristo Blanco while approaching our destination hundreds of kites pierce the sky as children run and gusts carry these wind vessels in brightly colored variations through the heavens. While a statue of Christ pure white and tall in stature stands with arms open to the valley below. In the shape of a cross which can be seen all over Cusco stands out as this Christian figure has emerged among the Inca Gods which are depicted throughout his surroundings as ruins dating back hundreds of years are found only a couple hundred feet away. The sun begins to set blades of grass shimmer in gold and leaves on trees soak in the rays of the sun. Deep colors penetrate the horizon with rolling hills and mountains become shadows against the sky. We play among the Inca ruins as Darren imitates sacrificial rituals of giving Carmen to the gods, a maze of walkways through stones so grand in stature that it makes you wonder how they were placed so perfectly together, two Chilean boys ask to pose with me for a picture as an elder man explains an abstract carving of a serpent in the stone wall.

The sun drops deeper beyond the mountains as we become more secluded from the world around us, people have already left the ruins for the city below as we attempt to head in the direction of the center of town, amazing views of dimly lit roads and church spires, shadows of people walking along, an old building walls while Carmen and Darren chat up ahead so many images capture my attention as I attempt to properly portray them in each scene and angle of photographic images depicting my point-of-view of clandestine nights in Cusco. Wooden posts hold up old city walls as they are angled against the structure embracing the building so it can continue to stand for future generations to see. Darren is off to his hostel as we thank him for joining us and exchange information, it is always amazing to meet new people and develop new friendships with those who enjoy traveling just as much as yours truly.

Alpaca skewers grilled to perfection on makeshift grills along roadsides, topped with a potato and amazing seasonings which filled me up before our enduring trek up the hillside to our hostel. Celebrations fill the parks as family and friends embrace life through food and celebration. Tomorrow is a big day as we leave at 5am for the first day of our Salkantay trek through the Andes to Manchu Picchu.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cusco by night upon descending the hillside to the city below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And fear not the unknown as we embrace the cuisine that Peru is know for!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cusco: Historic Capital of the Inca Empire

Saturday: 7th August 2010

Across Cuba, along the coast of Jamaica through Panama and down the coast of South America until our next destination; Lima.  Early morning hours we arrive a little before 5am; forms to fill out, customs agents, and passport stamps, baggage claim and before the sun has awaken we step out into the Peruvian air.   Peruvian Airlines check in to Cusco, gift shops, finger puppets, drugs at the airport pharmacy; airport taxes and security checkpoints as we make our way to wait for our 9:30 flight out of this Capital city.

I have declared my newest find, a Peruvian finger puppet of a monkey eating a banana, to be our trip mascot and I have decided that he will be my Tibi stand in for the duration of the next two and a half weeks.

Waiting in Lima

It seems like it took forever to board that plane as sleep deprivation sets in; anticipation rising to embrace the heart of Peru while Carmen and Chala sleep across airport chairs and Deniz, Cindy and I capture pictures of our airport excursion.  It is a relief as we finally board flight 9216 eastbound to Cusco.  As we venture on, snow capped mountains pierce the clouds and as we fly above them the magnitude of the Andes mountain range is unrealized but the aerial view is worth capturing.  In many places small villages only add to the intriguing landscape and bright blue lakes sparkle like sapphire gems.

Flying into Cusco was captivating; while many areas look shanty, the old structures and architecture were every bit of fitting for an ideal historical city in South America. As we land I feel nervous about the altitude, as if when they open those airplane doors the wind will be knocked out of me as I gasp for air, feeling the pressure hard against my chest and I wait for that moment without any reserves on how it will be here in the Andes.  I express my concern with Deniz as he laughs at my dramatic attempts to explain what I am expecting at any moment. The doors open and at that moment…nothing! I walk off the plane and into the airport thinking “Wow, that was overrated.”  Everything I had read seemed nothing like what I was experiencing. If anything I feel like I can breath better than any other point in my life. Winding through the crowds that fill the local airport, tour guides beckoning to grab your attention, and taxi drivers trying to swindle a few extra soles as you exit the front doors. Fifty soles, forty-five, thirty soles…sold!

Taxi to Loki

First glance of Cusco

Driving to our hostel gave us a view of Cusco that we other wise would have not experienced. Hanging out the window,trying to capture pictures of the city as we drive up the hillside to our hostel located outside the tourist district of Cusco.

We finally arrived at Loki Cusco, the party hostel of Peru located in a 500 year old refurbished architectural masterpiece of its time.  Deep reds, wooden railings, grass court yards and a bar stocked with Pisco, cervesa, tequila and Inca Kola.  After we got settled in, admiring the view which overlooks the city from our balcony and claiming which bed will be ours for the next couple nights, Carmen and I set out down the hillside to the historic square below.

View from our Balcony at Loki Hostel

Stairs leading the way down, short fire hydrants, Volkswagen bugs, old streets, church spires, and arch ways; women selling Chicha, fresh juice in plastic buckets, street food and anything else you can imagine.

Arch way from one square to the next

A market filled with Alpaca sweaters, hanging meat and pigs heads, coca leaves, fruits and vegetables new to the eye; fruit and honey desert stands lined with stools and ladies leaning in to entice you with the many choices listed on their menus. Lines of people eating soup and delicious Peruvian cuisines; Lomo Saltado jumped with huevo, sopa y cola, chuleta frita y pescado.

Cusco is a beautiful city and after the drilling walk back up the hill to our hostel we are ready for a short nap.  Afterward our tour guide, Edgar, will come to the hostel to discuss our upcoming adventure.

Fruit Stand

As 7 pm arrives Edgar is still not here, yet he calls to let us know he will be late.  After 45 minutes later he arrives apologizing for his tardiness, just my kind of people! Always late, I will fit in to such a laid back society.  We went through how our trek will be and what to expect; gaining even more excitement as we get even closer to the morning we set out.

Cuy

We then met up with two new friends we met earlier in the lobby, Emily from Greece and Rachel from England, to eat our first Peruvian dish.  After searching for Sumac Mijuy,which was on Loki’s list of recommendations, we gave up and settled for a restaurant which had a list of Peruvian favorites on the menu and for a reasonable price.  Alpaca skewers with boiled potatoes and Peruvian salad for me please while Deniz was more daring and ordered Cuy, better know as Guinea Pig.  A gamy taste with a slight resemblance to roasted lamb shank; just enough for me to get the idea but not sure if I could eat the whole thing.  Back to our hostel to see the Funk Rock band play, dance til close and watch as the others enjoyed the local Peruvian beer.  Carmen and I ended the night early around 2am while the others were not ready to settle in and ventured out into the city.

Tomorrow we set out to take in more sights and visit the Inca ruins near Pisac.

The Unknown

As I gaze out the window of the plane the image of stars speckled across the dark night sky seems to be the only thing on my mind. The unknown below us feels as if it is wrapped all around me; fading deeper into the darkness while the stretch of lights behind us in the distance gradually drifts away.  We head southbound away from the coastal outline of what is Florida to the Pacific coast of Peru.

I imagine we are over the ocean; so mystical and yet overwhelming not knowing what is around you or what maybe when you get to your destination.  No moon in the sky to light the path; only the stars above.  The lights from the coast dissipate and now I gaze on looking for any sign of an island or stretch of dotted lights indicating a city below.  Only after flying a little ways do I spot a cruise ship below all lit up and it makes me wonder where their next destination is; the Virgin Islands, Jamaica or Cozumel.

The unknown; so much to learn, so much that will never be revealed and uncertainties arise that must be overcome to truly know what life is all about.

“Leaving on a Jet Plane”

Anticipation to arrive at the airport and begin my journey to South America drags on as I wait for mid-afternoon to arrive.  There are five of us traveling together this time…I have come to realize that even though traveling solo is an adventure in itself while making the experience even more of a challenge; companionship is the paramount need to a successful journey abroad.  When traveling it is not only the exploration of culture, insight into history, for the love of food or the risk-taking adventures that makes the path worth wild but also the people you share those experiences with.

Carmen, Chala, Cindy, Deniz and I will be traveling to Peru for the upcoming weeks and will all be traveling to South America for the first time together.  Cindy caught an earlier flight to Miami where Chala, Carmen, Deniz and I will be meeting her before our overnight flight to Lima and then straight on the Cusco.  I must admit I am a little nervous about the altitude as I have read article after article and blog after blog about altitude sickness and the thought of gasping for air as I reach a city located at 11,000 feet is ever so frightening.

Tiberiu gives me those puppy dog eyes as he knows he will miss me while I am gone as I will him.  It has almost been a year since we have been apart for a period of time but I am sure 17 days will not be a problem; just wish he could join us since he absolutely loves the mountains and talks about them quit often. Childhood memories with friends, neighbors and classmates exploring the mountains of Romania for days on end.  A life quit different from my own and as I travel to Peru I will get to see for the first time beautiful snow capped mountains and to be able to envision what it must be like for Tibi to camp underneath those mighty peaks, black skies and beautiful stars.

As I board the plane here in Miami we sit here waiting for our plane to depart.  It will be a 5 and 1/2 hour flight before landing in Lima where it is currently 59 degrees Fahrenheit and despite my love for summer in Florida I look forward to winter in Peru.  In current news there has been 32 people diagnosed with Bubonic Plague which is concentrated in a coastal city in the North east of the country.  I am not to sure what to expect really as I read advisories and watch television shows like “Locked up Abroad”.  Pickpockets, bag snatchers, trickery and theft; all minute issues that come with traveling abroad whether it’s Europe, Asia, South America or even the States.

Anticipation

The good with the bad though; divulging in tales of adventure, history, culture and culinary embellishments.  Machu Picchu is the most prized destination in Peru and one of the Seven Wonders of the World; the idea of trekking for five days up Mount Salkantay to this ancient Inca city will be a moment I will never forget and to be proud of.  To hike at 12,000 feet around mountain passes, valleys, cliffs and along streams to a height of more than 15,000 feet where glaciers and snow capped mountains are placed in miraculous view right before our eyes and then to finally end our trek over looking the walls of Machu Picchu just seems unreal.  This is what the first half of our adventure will entail with the experience alone filling in all the minute details that makes this life worth living.  The life of a vagabond, a wanderer, a tramp; aimlessly traveling to the next destination that captures my heart.

I shall sleep now as we arrive fairly early around 4:30 am and I am sure sleep will not be an option as I will be exploring new places tomorrow and acclimate to my temporary home in the mountains. More words will begin to pour out on the pages ahead as I experience South America for the first time.

Peruvian Cuisine

Peru is known for their array of wonder dishes and unique delicacies! Culinary artist from around the world travel to this South American country for annual Peruvian food festivals and numerous television personalities visit to explore the delectable varieties such as Cuy (Guinea pig), fresh Ceviche, Pisco Sour, and various fruits and vegetables. I thought I would share some basic receipts with you that I collected during my journey through Peru.

Pisco Sour

Ingredients:

1 egg white
1 tablespoon sugar
1 glass of Pisco (Peruvian Brandy)
Juice of 6 limes
Chopped ice
Angostura bitters

Preparation:

1. Beat the egg white and sugar in a blender
2. Add Pisco, lime juice, ice and angostura bitters
3. Mix well and pour into glasses

 

 

Stuffed Avocado (Paltas Rellenas)

Ingredients:

Avocado
Cut green beans
Diced cooked carrots Ranch dressing
Mozzarella cheese

Preparation:

1. Cut avocado in half and remove seed
2. Mix cut green beans, diced cooked carrots, ranch dressing and stuff in middle of avocago
3. Top with shredded mozzarella cheese

Ingredients can be substituted for just about anything. Chicken or tuna salad, crab, corn, potatoes, tomatoes, or eggplant. Just add what you like to this dish.

 

 

Papas a la Huancaína

Ingredients:

10 medium potatoes (new or red a good choice)
1 pound of cheese (Romano, Mexican or feta work well)
2 small jalapeno peppers
1 cup evaporated milk
½ cup vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic
8 saltine crackers
1 tablespoon prepared mustard
salt and pepper
lettuce
3 hard cooked eggs
black olives

Preparation:

1. Cook and peel potatoes and allow to cool
2. In a blender, mix the cheese, peppers, milk, oil, garlic, crackers, mustard, salt and pepper. The sauce should be fairly thick; add more crackers if not, or add milk is too thick
3. Lay a bed of lettuce in a serving dish and place the potatoes on top. Cover with the sauce. Cut the hard boiled eggs in half and place on top of the potatoes. Add black olives if desired
4. This dish can be served slightly cold

 

 

Chicken & Vegetables

Ingredients:

Onions
Cooked carrots
Green beans
Grilled chicken
Ranch dressing (just a little for moisture)

Preparation:

1. Cut large pieces of onion, carrots, green beans and chicken
2. Grill all of the above ingredients and then toss in ranch dressing
3. Eat with rice or just by itself

 

 

Stuffed Carne

Ingredients:

Spinach
Red bell pepper
White cheese
Beef skirt steak

Preparation:

1. Sautee spinach leaves and red bell pepper until slightly soft
2. Lay out beef skirt steak and layer cooked spinach, red bell pepper, and desired cheese
3. Then roll one end to the next of the steak into what looks like a sushi roll. 4. Bake in oven until beef is cooked and cut roll into smaller pieces

 

 

Machu Picchu Burger

Ingredients:

Hamburger patty
Lettuce, tomato, onion
Cheese of choice
Ham topped with Fried egg Hamburger bun

Preparation:

1. Grill hamburger patty, ham and fried egg
2. Place on hamburger bun and top with cheese, lettuce, tomato and onion
3. Enjoy!

 

Nachos con Doritos:
use Doritos instead of tostado chips! Cover with your favorite nacho toppings.

 

 

Potato Salad y Tuna Fish (Causa Rellena):
Layer potato salad in dish, then a layer of tuna salad and then topped with an additional layer of potato salad. Add whatever you like in addition or stuff it with something different!

 

 

 

 

 

Chimichuri (fresh spicy sauce/marinade)

Ingredients:

2 cups parsley

8 cloves minced garlic

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 lemon wedge (juice)

1 tablespoon diced red onion

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 jalapeno with seeds chopped

1 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

Great for marinade and large quantity…not as spicy!

OR

1 1/2 cup Parsley leaves packed
4 Serrano chilies chopped
2 Thai Chili chopped
5 medium Cloves of Garlic chopped
1 teaspoon Ground Cumin
1/4 teaspoon Dried Thyme Leaves
3/4 teaspoon Sea salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon Honey
3 tablespoons Fresh Lemon Juice
1/3 cup Red Wine Vinegar
1/2 cup Olive oil

Great for eating with any dish you want to spice up!

Preparation:

1. Pulse parsley in processor to chop
2. Add remaining ingredients and blend

 

 

Lomo Saltado jumped with Egg

Ingredients

2 pounds of beef tenderloin or other tender steak
¼ cup red wine or burgundy
2 tablespoons of crushed garlic
2 medium onions cut in strips
1 tomato cut in strips/1 tomato pureed
5 potatoes peeled and cut into strips for frying
1 jalapeno pepper cut into thin strips
1 tablespoon of vinegar
1 fried egg Vegetable oil for frying
Salt and pepper
Finely chopped parsley

Preparation

1. Cut beef into thin strips and marinate in wine for 1 hour
2. Cook garlic in oil over medium heat and add meat. Reserve the juice.
3. Add the tomato puree, salt and pepper. Cook a few minutes
4. Add onion, tomato, jalapeno strip, parsley and vinegar. Combine the juice
from the meat
5. Fry the potatoes in a separate pan and add to other ingredients
6. Serve over white rice and top with fried egg

 

 

Ceviche de Pescado

Ingredients

2 pounds of white fish (Mahi mahi, Sol, Cod)
1 cup of lemon juice
1/3 cup lime juice 1 clove of crushed garlic
2 red peppers, diced
2 finely diced jalapeno peppers
Salt and pepper to taste

1 large onion, finely chopped
Bunch of finely chopped cilantro
2 lettuce leaves per plate
12 to 16 corn on the cobs cut into 2 inch pieces cooked as usual
3 or 4 sweet potatoes, boiled and peeled
6 to 8 lemons cut in half and placed in center of table

Preparation

1. Wash and de-bone fish and cut in 1/2 inch chunks, fold lime juice into fish
2. Season with lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper. Let it marinade for 1 hour
3. Add onion, jalapeno and red pepper and cilantro. Marinade for 1 more hour
4. Serve on a bed of lettuce and add two pieces of corn on the cob and a portion of the sweet potatoes

You can add shrimp, scallops, Octopus, calamari, muscles as well. If you add crab meat add it last, after the fish has marinated.

Cigar City

March 2010

As I walk the main street of this historically preserved city situated within the center of a major Florida metropolitan area. I have witnessed bars, restaurants and various shops change from one thing to the next over the years while some have remained through the economic recession; most likely through customer loyalty and since their doors have been opened many years or even decades ago. I’ve worked here for nearly three years and always I seem to find something new or experience events and meet people that I will carry with me for a lifetime.

It is when I stumble off the main street or truly look at my surroundings when I grasp the history and beauty this small community holds. Palm trees, painted murals on building sides, eccentric people and old brick structures that form the area of Ybor City. Cigar rollers in shop windows, flamingo dancers, the Improve, sea foam green rails and awnings entangle Central Ybor; while a grand sign above the Movico Theatre reads, “Centro Ybor” with a beautiful Cuban girl painted in red circa 1920s.

Parks with vendors on Saturday mornings, lined with a vegetable market, arts, crafts and handmade jewelry; statues depicting the Cuban and Italian heritage. Yellow trolleys depicting early century Tampa run through the city on tracks that lead to the port and Channelside. The 433 streetcar toots its horn as it approaches its stop; eager little boys and visitors cannot wait to board as I sit back and observe from the window of a coffee shop. Chickens run across streets and live wild in alleyways, perching in trees and vibrant in color. Rustic orange, brick red, white, black, and calico; one stands out among the others as its fluffy feathers resemble that of a furry little dog running about. I have met professional football, baseball and hockey players, Jerry Springer, Poly Shore, Underoath, Gogol Bordello, Mayor Pam Iorio. People visiting from Europe, South America and Asia; various languages fill the air and cultures experience this beautiful place. It feels like New Orleans but with the Spanish and Italian influence instead of French flavor. Cantinas, margaritas, beer, Sangrias, $2 martinis and PBR with a shot of cheap whiskey. Artisan roasted brew, coffee con leche and shots at various bars; live music, rock, Spanish, hip hop and Greek. A starving musician plays his saxophone while big name bands fill the old theatre headlines at what is now known as the Ritz. Rainbow flags, Puerto Rican pride, the Italian green, red & white; Hookah bars with Arabic traditional water pipes, Greek food, Columbian, Cuban & French, Italian, American, Japanese and Asian, everything you can desire within a ½ mile stretch. Cobblestone roads and brick laid streets; people dispersing free admission and drink tickets to entice those strolling by to choose their club to dance the night away.

Homeless men and women walk the streets, sleep on benches along 7^th avenue and beg for money giving Ybor a particular feel despite the grunge and mislead paths of those less fortunate. The night seen changes drastically from daytime charm where drunk young adults, clubs with loud music, thugs who are just looking for a fight; cops on horses and girls wearing as little as possible. Transvestites, hoods, freaks and gays; outrageous hair, tattoos and body piercings, fashion unique and daring. Copious events accommodate it all; tattoo or fetish conventions, the arts, theatre, film festivals and pirates; parades for every occasion and event that consumes the Ybor scene. Super Bowl 2009, Auburn verses Northwestern in the last Outback Bowl; Gasparilla pirate invasions, St. Patties Day parade, Guavaween in October and cultural events spread throughout the year.

It is late March right now and the weather is now changing; slight rains dampen afternoon grounds and warm weather now fills the space around us. The desire to be outside is just what I look forward to during my free time or while I spend my afternoons reading school assignments or studying for that next exam. Ybor is the perfect spot to sit back and people watch whether it’s day or night. From young ladies pose for photographers in alley ways, or old couples walk hand in hand, women dressed in wedding gowns posing for their special day, business suits, Mohawks in Blue, red or pink, or maybe even Christian protesters attempting to change the lives of those late night sinners. Ybor has it all!

Each time I truly walk these alleys I wonder about every element that makes up this small stretch of old buildings; streets and paths through Ybor are so unique and yet how can I forget what I am truly part and the magic people feel when they come here. What I have taken for granted many times and over the years is a new awakening each time I let my senses overwhelm me and I truly look at the beauty that embraces this part of town. I find it fascinating the power of emotion and the overwhelming passions that incur when desires are formed in the realm of one’s mind. Desire in the sense of strong feelings and enjoyment in everything around me; to truly capture every element that makes up the whole picture and understand the beauty that is expressed.

The Sounds of Drums…

Sunday: 18^th October 2009

Mid-October is here and it is just now getting a little cool for Florida, if you consider sixty or seventy degrees to be such; an enormous difference from the ninety degree weather only two days prior I must say.

I am actually lying on the beach waiting for the evening to begin and the sun to set. It is a sight to see when visitors lay in bathing suits, swim in the Gulf of Mexico and enjoy the Florida sun while those who are natives are bundled up in warm sweaters, beanies and even wrapped in blankets. Our blood has thinned and I know I am not quit use to the cool weather as those who come to visit and enjoy temperatures that mimic summer days where they reside.

As I am overcome by relaxation and peace I listen to the sounds of the seaside; putting my pen to paper. Soft waves hitting the shore with children playing in the break, seagulls dancing across the vast sky and the wind playing cords of song for everyone to enjoy on this October day is just what I needed to complete my Sunday afternoon. Gradually people are arriving with their drums in hand and spirits high. As long as the sun is shinning and the rain is absent this ritual on Treasure Island proceeds; as it has for the past 30 years. Every Sunday around 6 pm people of all ages come together for great conversation, music and dancing in the form of a drum circle on the beaches near St. Petersburg. I spent the morning with my brother, Michael, enjoying our conversations, listening to the array of music that fills his iPod and as the sun gradually sets in the sky he is excited for this event to soon set in motion.

When we first arrived, this long stretch of beach was unfilled despite the sporadic families speckled out along the shore and children swimming in the bitter evening tide. It will be interesting to see how everything unfolds and the number of people who will arrive in the upcoming hours as those who enjoy the beach, have a free spirit and love for music come together to listen to the sounds of drums.

Illinois Road Rage

As we head south on I-355 toward the suburbs of Chicago the scenery becomes more desolate compared to the sky scrappers that pierce the skyline of downtown Chicago where we had just come from. The distinct aroma of city life filled the empty space within the car; pollution from thousands of cars that clog the city streets with slight catches of delicious smells of food most likely from a Polish bakery, Chicago pizza joint or a variety of other ethnic cuisines. Cicero, Harlem, La grange; further south as we drive to a distant rural town where a small Polish restaurant better known as Warsaw Inn resides.

Slight traffic still filled the interstate and attempting to stay at a constant speed required Tiberiu to switch lanes; waiting for cars in the fast lane to pass was an act of kindness until the moment when he began to merge a young guy proceeded to cut into the lane.  Weaving in and out of traffic, he cut us off and then began to tailgate the lady in front of him to top it off.  Not stopping there he continued to do this to a number of others in the stretch of cars and trucks up ahead.

We eventually caught up with him and cut him off as retaliation.  Hitting the brakes multiple times while in front of him, he continued to ride close behind. When given the opportunity he pulled up beside us, rolled down his window and began to say a few words.  But as he got close to our car Tibi collected a large amount of spit from deep in the back of his throat, turned and then spit straight into his window…actually hitting him inside his car!

Ha ha ha…gotcha!

What is the chances of that!?!

What a sight to see!  As he wiped the spit off his face you could tell he became even more enraged as he threw something out of his window and succeeded in hitting the side of our car. Worth it though to see him get spit on at 80mph driving down the interstate.  But in return I proceeded to throw a bottle of water at his silver Chevy cavalier and Tibi again spit in his general direction. Good thing he exited soon after or else things could have gotten a little more heated!